SAN FRANCISCO FREE WALKING TOUR SELF-GUIDED

BY BOB ROMANOFF

www.sanfranciscowalk.com

The following is a gift to the citizens and visitors of the beautiful city that I love. This is a not for profit site.  I have not, in any way, been compensated for any endorsements, links, etc.  There is no advertising.

DEDICATION:

Santa Clara County Fire Captain Mark McCormack, who was electrocuted at a structure fire on Feb. 13, 2005,  in Los Gatos.  His kindness, intelligence, and dedication will be missed.

Walking is definitely the best way to experience the city.  You can see more on a tour bus. More important than saving money or getting exercise, you will feel and experience the joy of the city much more by walking.  San Francisco’s main tourist areas are beautiful and can be easily walked by the whole family.   This walk is 3-6 miles long.  There is only one small scenic (Telegraph) hill to walk up in the first 3 miles.

START OF TOUR

Embarcadero Station of the Bay Area Rapid Transit (B.A.R.T.)  If you are on foot, bus, etc. our starting point is located at Market & Spear Streets. 

After exiting the B.A.R.T. train:  go up 2 levels (first floor is S. F. Municipal Railway) look for the Spear & Market exit sign (it is east-toward the bay)

Walk 1 1/2 blocks east to the Ferry Building located at the end of Market Street with the “Port of San Francisco” sign facing away from you, on its roof. The street you will cross is named the Embarcadero, its walkway named Herb Caen Way after a local Pulitzer Prize winning columnist and author who died a few days ago.

 Stop # 1 Ferry Building

Completed in 1896 this is one of the few survivors of the 1906 quake and fire on the tour. Before the mid 1930’s when our two bridges were built, this was one of the busiest ferry terminals in the world, serving up to 50,000 people a day! It has lots of quality shops and several nice restaurants-some with outdoor seating in the rear. If you like your coffee strong, try Peet’s coffee inside. There is a small Farmers market (on the street side) Tuesday and Thursday. On Saturdays there is a larger farmers market in the street and bay sides. Walk through the building to the bay side and see how some San Francisco workers commute to work.

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Walk along the rear of the building south (toward the Bay Bridge), and then go back out to the street.

Turn right and walk south (toward the bridge) 150 yards to pier 14.  This new pier (June 2006) provides a feeling of being on the water because of its open sided design. 

Walk back to Market St and up Market Street on the north (right) side. In about a block, you will see the intersection of Market-California-Drumm Streets.

Turn north (right) on Drumm St. and walk along the hotel driveway 100’.

Stop #2 Hyatt Regency Embarcadero Hotel

This hotel has the most dramatic lobby in the bay area. Please don’t judge it by the outside!
Go up 2 escalators and look around the lobby. The interior glass elevators go up 17 stories. During the Christmas season a lovely curtain of multi colored lights hang down 150’ from the ceiling and there is a nice Christmas display on this main floor. The circular rooftop revolving restaurant opens at 5 P.M. A great place for a drink.
Walk back outside to the cable car tracks next to the hotel.

Stop #3 California Street Cable Car

Cable cars were America’s first mobile National Historical Landmark. They were created by Andrew Hallidie, a Scottish immigrant wire rope (cable) manufacturer, as a way of traversing the hills. The first cable car line began operation on Aug 2, 1873. At one time there were eight cable car lines. Only three lines are now in operation. The other two lines start at Powell and Market and go near Fisherman’s Wharf and are usually much more crowded.
Hint: BE QUICK TO GET A GOOD SPOT: My favorite location is standing on the running board in the extreme front, curb side (hotel side) of the cable car. Note: this cable car line (unlike the other two) doesn’t have a turntable at the end of the line. Therefore, the California Street Cable car has to go forward from both ends. Because this is the end of the line, the side that was the rear will now be the front going up the hill. If it’s too crowded (very unlikely) and you were unable to stand up outside, wait for the next cable car! Pay the conductor $5.00 per person age 5 and over. If you are very much into exercise or low on funds (we have all been there) walk the 8 blocks.
As a kid (many moons ago) I was told it was against the rules for women to stand up on
the outside of the cable car. So ladies, enjoy your freedom! Sit the younger children on the seats in front of you.
Hint: Before you start, hop off and take a picture of your group on the cable car,
Ride the car about 8 blocks and get off at Stockton Street. It’s about ¾ of the way up the hill in front of you.
 

Walk north (down) Stockton Street on the left (west) side of the street, for about 150’. Near the railing you will see a set of stairs. Walk down the stairs.
                                                                                                                

Walk north on Stockton Street (uphill-out of the tunnel) 2 ½ blocks to Washington St.
You are now in Chinatown, which is the largest Chinese settlement outside Asia.

Turn right down (east) on Washington Street for about 200’

Turn left (north) into Ross Alley. There are many safe and interesting alleys in San Francisco. Ross Alley used to be called Gamblers Alley and it had big iron gates on both sides that would be closed at the first sign of a police raid. Proceed down Ross ¾ of the block. On the right side at # 56 Ross is:

Stop # 4 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Co. 9 a.m. to midnight

Inside you will see how fortune cookies are made. Check out how many varieties of fortune cookies there are. Try the free samples and then buy a bag or two of the flat cookies. They taste the same and you get an awful lot for a few dollars. Worst deal-if that funky hand made sign is still up to pay $.50 to take a picture of the ladies making cookies-tell them you are buying cookies and take all the pictures you want.
Upon exiting Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Co. go to the right (north) on Ross Alley,

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Within 100’turn left up (west) on Jackson St. ½ block until Stockton Street.
It was reported that Mr. Andrew Hollidie saw a team of horses pulling a full wagonload of people up the steepest part of Jackson Street. One of the horses slipped, then all were dragged by the cart back down the hill quite a way (making horrible noises) on their sides. That sad event stimulated him to find a better way to move people on the steep hills: cable cars.

Cross Stockton Street turn right (down) north the left side on Stockton St., 100’ later stop at 1117 Stockton

Stop #5 Chinese Fish Market

Even though it is crowded all the time, walk inside and look around. Check out the types of fish and animals for sale, including what is for sale in the crates.


I have been told the Chinese believe that in order to buy fish and animals that are fresh
and healthy, it is preferable for them to be alive. For a smaller fish market, continue north to 1135 Stockton St. Be sure to look in the crates there also.
Continue north on Stockton St.

Turn right (east) down Pacific Ave. The big apartment building on the right hand side of the street is San Francisco public housing-Chinatown style.

Turn left (north) on Grant Ave. This is considered the main commercial street of Chinatown. Walk one block.

Turn right (east) on Broadway- just a few steps until the intersection of Columbus Ave. Look down Columbus Ave. and you will get a great view of the Transamerica Pyramid . It’s the tallest building in town and a very unique part of our skyline.

Turn left and walk northwest up Columbus Ave. on either side of the street for 5 blocks. You are entering the North Beach neighborhood. At one time it was predominately Italian.

Turn right (north) on Stockton Street. In one block you will be at

Stop # 6 Washington Square

This delightful park has been featured in many movies. It has benches for weary legs. Its also surrounded by nice bakeries and restaurants.
Continue up Stockton at the far end of the square

Turn right (up) east on Filbert St.
One of the best San Francisco views is awaiting you. You can do it! Keep an eye out for a flock of wild parrots (under 100) that live in the local trees. Continue up Filbert as it turns into steps. Notice Garfield Elem. School on its hillside perch. Walk to the top of the hill. A few more steps up to the tower. Go to the Bay Bridge (south) side on top of the hill first. Then go to the tower.

Stop # 7 Coit Tower on Telegraph Hill

1850-1853 Telegraph Hill had a unique marine semaphore system which would notify downtown merchants of the impending arrival of a ship. Lilly Hitchcock Coit, philanthropist and admirer of San Francisco firefighters left funds to S.F. for beautification. They were used to build this tower. Go inside Coit tower even if there is a line outside. The line is for the elevator to the top. Inside are unique murals painted in the 1930’s. The elevator to the top cost $3.75. It’s not worth waiting if there is a line. Instead go to the north end of the parking lot, in front of the Christopher Columbus statue, and stand on the cement blocks (like everyone else) and enjoy the beautiful view for as long as you want.

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Take lots of pictures. You can see from the Golden Gate Bridge to the Bay Bridge. Alcatraz Island is the small island in front of you and beautiful Marin County is on the north side of the bay. The hill on your left (west) is Russian Hill. Can you find the “crookedest street in the world” on it? That’s on mile 4 of this tour.
After viewing, walk to the Oakland (east) side.
Walk south- east (toward the bay bridge) past the street signs 000 block of Telegraph Hill & 360 Greenwich St. Continue walking (slightly downhill) south on the sidewalk 300’ until the 350 Filbert Street sign.

Turn east down the driveway for 50’ just past the blue top fire hydrant you will see a set of steps going down. Don’t worry, these are public steps. Walk approx. 85 steps to upper Montgomery, 33 more steps to Lower Montgomery St. and down 41 steps to Darrell Walkway. Many of these prestigious homes have the stairways as their main entrance.

Turn left On Darrell Walkway and walk north 50’ and then down more steps to Napier Lane. This small pocket of homes was missed by the 1906 fire.
Walk 200’ long Napier Lane. It’s a step into the old west.
Continue down the final steps to Sansome Street
Hint: If your group goes across the Sansome Street to the steps leading to Levi Straus Plaza (an extraordinarily well designed office building complex), if you squat or go down the few stairs, you can get a great picture of your group with the stairway and Coit Tower in the background.

Turn left (north-away from the bay bridge) on Sansome Street for 2 blocks to Herb Caen-the Embarcadero.

END OF MILE 3. The next mile is on the level, along the bay.
If you don’t care to see Pier 39, Fisherman’s Wharf, or the “crookedest street in the world” this is a good spot to end the walk. Take the "F" Market light rail south (toward the Bay Bridge). Deposit $1.50 per adult (they accept bills). Ask the driver to announce the Ferry Building or wherever on Market Street you want off.

Hopefully you will continue the tour by crossing the street, turning left, and walking northwest on the Embarcadero.

Within a few hundred feet you will be at Pier 35. This is where in 2006, 88 cruises leave on 28 ships for 14 cruise lines. They go to British Columbia, Alaska, Mexico, Hawaii, thru the Panama Canal to Ft. Lauderdale, and the South seas and points in between. That makes it easier for us locals to cruise. It’s not just for us old folks anymore. Possibly, some of you out of the area folks might want to add a cruise to your next vacation, or a walking tour to your cruise.

Continue walking a few hundred yards northwest along the bay and you will be at:

Stop # 8 Pier 39 (beginning of Fisherman’s Wharf)

Feel like watching street artists or shopping? Pier 39 also has regularly scheduled performances by entertainers. The schedule for entertainment is on a pole near the entrance. There is a nice carousel at the end of the pier. The hidden jewel for me is going to the far west (left) side of the pier. There are hundreds of wild sea lions only
30’away. They are nicknamed “Sea Lion-ebrities”. There are fewer in summer because
the mature males commute to Santa Barbara where the mature females (5+ years old) stay all year. In the fall, the mature males rejoin the immature males and females here. Pier 39 has a docent for scheduled talks and a non-profit group runs the nearby bookstand. The sales person was very knowledgeable about these marine mammals.
Continue in the N.W. direction along the bay. Note the Blue & Gold Alcatraz ferry. See additional trip #1 below.

Stop # 9 Fisherman’s Wharf

Continue along the water. Turn left (South) on Taylor St at Fisherman’s Grotto #9. If possible try to walk between the outdoor seafood sales and the restaurants. Enjoy the smell of fresh cooked Dungeness (our world class local) crab. Turn right (west) on Jefferson, it’s the first street. Notice the fishing boats. Many are sightseeing and/or party (individual or small group fishing) boats.
 

END OF MILE 4. To get back to the starting point, continue walking ½ a block west on Jefferson, turn left (south) on

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Jones. Near the far end of that block on the right hand side is where you catch the "F" Market streetcar. It’s an “old time” delightfully slow paced return to the Ferry Building. Put $1.50 in the fare box (bills accepted). Ask the driver to announce the Ferry Building stop. HINT: If you are going to take a cab back, ask the driver to take you down the “crookedest street in the world” on your way back.

If, however, you are young, strong, and still looking for more San Francisco adventures, by walking up Russian Hill and down the “crookedest street in the world” continue N. on Jefferson.

In two short blocks turn left (south) at Hyde Street. At this corner is the entrance to the Hyde St. Pier-Historic Ships. It’s the largest collection of historic ships in the world and the only “floating” national park. Open daily 9:30-5:30. Adults $6, kids under 12 free.
Walk up (south) on Hyde St. You will notice the Hyde St. Cable car turn around on your right. If there is no line, this is a fun way to get to the top of Russian Hill or downtown. A cab is quicker everywhere and less expensive to the top of the hill. Walk or ride 6 blocks up Hyde Street to Lombard Street

Stop # 10 “the crookedest street in the world”.

Turn east-downhill (left) and walk down beautiful Lombard Street. The flowers are maintained by the city. Continue down hill until Columbus Ave.

END OF MILE 5. To get back to the starting point, take the #30 Stockton bus, cable car, or cab downtown (to the right-uphill). Ask the driver for directions to your hotel, car or B.A.R.T.
Over Nob hill to downtown, if you still have the time, interest, and horsepower to continue to walk , Turn right (south-east) on Columbus Ave.

In one block turn half right (south) on Powell. Continue on Powell and walk over Nob Hill to Market Street and BART. Nob Hill used to be called Knob Hill because it had a large earth knob on top. The top of the hill was leveled during the 1800’s and huge mansions for the wealthiest people in the west were built here. Unfortunately, most perished in the fire of 1906. Gradually the K was dropped. At Post Street, Union Square, will be on your left. It was named for the place where sometimes violent demonstrations were held just prior to the civil war.  In a few more blocks you are at Market Street and B.A.R.T. Congradulations!  END OF MILE 7.

Thanks for trying the walking tour. It’s almost impossible not to enjoy San Francisco and Northern California

Links
B.A.R.T. www.bart.gov
Caltrain www.caltrain.com
Golden Gate Transit www.goldengatetransit.org 
S.F. Muni www.sfmuni.com 
S.F. visitor bureau www.sfvisitor.org 

A few rules of thumb in San Francisco “the city”:

1. As Mark Twain said “the coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco”. No matter how nice it looks or feels, bring a light windbreaker with you. The city is blessed with average high temps near or in the 60’s year around. If you are tired of the cold in the winter or the heat and humidity in the summer think of visiting San Francisco.

2. This tour takes you through some of San Francisco’s nicest neighborhoods. I would feel comfortable walking around alone at night. Please remember though, street crime occasionally happens in nice areas of your town, likewise in San Francisco.

3. If you are coming into San Francisco for one-day only, park outside the city and ride in. Parking in San Francisco is expensive and time consuming. Try not to drive over the S.F-Oakland Bay Bridge. It’s consistently the worst traffic in the bay area. If you are coming into S.F. for the day from the south or east, park at BART outside the city and ride in. BART presently goes as far south as Fremont and Millbrae, as far eastward as Dublin/Pleasanton and Richmond

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(for I-80 east of Richmond, use the El Cerrito Del Norte Station).  Larkspur (north bay) and Vallejo & Alameda (east bay) have scenic high-speed ferries to downtown. Best downtown parking lot is 5th & Mission St. Mission St. is the next street south of Market Street, which is the main street in town.
Caltrain is a good choice for the San Jose/mid peninsula. Area: from the S. F. caltrain station: Walk east (toward the bay) on King St. until the Embarcadero. Turn left (north) on the Embarcadero and it’s a beautiful walk to stop #1 the Ferry Building. If you don’t want to walk an extra mile each way, take the “N” Judah light rail car from in front of AT&T (baseball) Park on King St. to the Ferry Building for stop #1.

4. If you get too late or tired to finish the walk, just look for a bus stop. Any bus driver will tell you how to get back to your starting point. Bus fare is $1.50 per person, 50 cents for kids and seniors (65 and over). Exact change is required but they take dollar bills. Taxis are plentiful, and expensive per mile but most SF trips are short, usually under $12.

5. Call me prejudiced, but if you are coming to see the bay area the most central and interesting location is in San Francisco. The San Francisco Visitors Bureau will mail you lots of info, maps, and tours at www.sfvisitor.org.  They also have a web link to a group of volunteers who lead free walks throughout the city www.sfcityguides.org/.  If you like to hotel and shop higher-end stay in the Union Square /Moscone Center area. I have recently discovered hostels. They have kitchens, some private rooms, lounge areas with TVs, computers, etc. Now traveling alone is much more social, cheaper, and fun. My wife prefers bed and breakfasts! There are many of both in San Francisco.

This walking tour should not be driven or biked. It has one-way streets in which we walk against traffic, a pedestrian alley, very difficult parking areas, 4 stairways, etc

OTHER SPECIAL PLACES

1. Alcatraz Island- pier 41, ½ day www.blueandgoldfleet.com.  or (415) 705-5555
If you can only do one other San Francisco thing in addition to the above walking tour, take the Alcatraz ferry. It’s a short calm ride. Alcatraz is run by the National Park Service. It is a beautiful place. Same day reservations are difficult on weekends and during the summer. They are especially difficult on summer weekends. Don’t forget your windbreaker. It’s a great deal at $16.50 which includes the self-guided tour with headphones, ranger guided tours, and a boat ride over and back. The headphones make the tour more fun.
    Once you get to the island ask when the next ranger led tour is. If it isn’t for a while use your headphones first for the self-guided tour. For you folks that have been out there several times, sign up for the night tour-its different and spooky. The next best choice to the Alcatraz tour, but a big step down, is to take the one hour bay cruise. The blue and gold fleet’s main competition, is the Red and White fleet www.redandwhite.com  located a few hundred yards past (NW of pier 39 on the Embarcadero). Both list for about $21. There are sometimes web discounts. The Red and White fleet ticket booth told me their boats are quieter because everyone has wireless headphones to hear the tour guide.

2. Golden Gate Bridge - drive, walk, bike across - ½ day.

In 1846 John C. Fremont was inspired by the golden horn (chrysophyae) of Istanbul’s Bosphorus Straight which links Asia to Europe, and called it the Golden Gate Straight. The bridge was built in the 1930’s. It’s painted “international orange” for visibility and to blend into its surroundings. This lovely bridge has two 746 feet high towers that gracefully support the cables holding aloft a 4,200 foot long suspension span between them. It feels longer.
If you plan to use public transit, take the Golden Gate Transit #10 which starts at 1st and Mission Streets and has other stops. The cost is $2.85. per person. For an interesting virtual walking tour across the bridge, go to www.goldengatebridge.org/photos/ 
To drive there, follow U.S. #101 North along Van Ness Ave, then West on Lombard St about 1.5 miles and follow the signs to the Golden Gate Bridge.

                                                                           
If you just want to walk on the bridge, which is free, and don’t like driving in congested areas; then save the $5.00 toll and park on the S.F. side. The turnoff is just before the toll booths. (please read below first) and bring a jacket.
If you want to drive across and walk on the bridge, drive across and take the Vista Point off ramp. Park there and walk back as far as you want. A public bathroom is located there. Pedestrians are only permitted on the east side of the bridge

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(follow the signs). It’s the best side for city and bay views. Historic Fort Point (1853) is almost under the south (S.F.) side of the bridge. After viewing at Vista Point take the next exit (Sausalito), and follow the signs for a return to S.F. turning under the freeway. For one of the best views of the city and an idea of why the bay area is so special, make a quick right turn up Conzelman Road before you get on the #101 southbound. Stopping to enjoy the view, proceed over the top into the Marin headlands. Proceed northbound for a delightful little lighthouse at Pt. Bonita or to return turn right on Bunker Road and turn right at McCullough to return to Conzelman Rd. If you want to see a nearby beautiful redwood grove National Monument (old growth redwood groves are very special) see trip # 3 below.
    For biking, this world class ride, a quick search of the web, it appears two bike companies specialize in this ride. They are www.baycitybike.com  (415) 346-2354 which has great videos on their web site. Also www.blazingsaddles.com  (414) 202-8888. Prices were about $25-$45/ day, depending on the bike. Locals, with their own bikes, start at the marina green at Marina Blvd and Fillmore. I would recommend for people in average shape to ride across the golden gate bridge to Vista Point and back, or coast down to cute Sausalito for a rest. If you still feel strong, on to lovely Tiburon, then the ferry back (under $7. with bike) from either Sausalito or Tiburon. Don’t ride back up to the bridge. The road is dangerous. Consult the bike rental company or the bridge web site to determine the proper side of the bridge sidewalk to ride on. It varies with time of day, time of year, and weekday vs. weekend. One side is always available for biking, sometimes both sides are open so you can bike over on one side and back on the other. Bring a jacket.
For you stronger bikers, ride the Golden Gate Bridge, use the pedestrian underpass at Vista Point, ride or walk the approx. 1,000’vertical up Conzelman Rd. over the top to Bunker Rd. Turn right on Bunker Rd. and to return via the bridge turn right at McCullough.  To go down to cute Sausalito stay on Bunker Rd. and through the tunnel. Finish with an easy ride out to Tiburon. The road is dangerous up from Sausalito to the bridge. If you aren’t exhausted after this ride you are in outstanding condition.

3. Muir Woods National Monument on Mt. Tamapais in beautiful Marin County. 45 minute drive north of downtown or take a bus tour- ½ day. www.visitmuirwoods.com. 
This lovely 295-acre canyon is full of old growth (never logged) redwood trees. You will find 1,000 year old redwoods trees towering 260’ high in a beautiful setting. From the parking lot you only have a very short distance to walk. The monument’s main paths are flat and paved. There is a $3.00 per person entrance fee. Unfortunately, there is no public transportation close by. It’s a scenic 12 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge. Many bus and tour operators combine Muir Woods with Sausalito in a ½ day tour.

4. 17 Mile Drive on the Monterey Peninsula and California Coast - 6 hours driving round trip, plus stops. One very long day or a nice 2 day trip. Even in two days you won’t have time to do all the following fun things:
Drive south on Highway #1 first stop 55 miles south of S.F. Ano Nuevo State Park- www.anonuevo.org/.  The northern elephant seals are 14’-16’ long with females weighing up to 2,000 lbs, and males up to 5,000 lbs! In the winter there are hundreds on the beach and you can often get up to 25 ‘ from them. You will need to walk about a mile from the parking to see the seals. Try to have reservations Dec 15-March 15th. That’s when the mature males and females are there. Females, immature elephant seals, and pups are there much of the year. This is a state park and has a small entrance fee.
Continue driving south for about 35 more miles to Santa Cruz. www.santacruz.org.  Santa Cruz has the best year around surfing in the mainland U.S. Getting hungry? A good full-menu restaurant that is consistently voted the best burgers and fries is Carpos at 2018 Mission Street. Hwy #1 becomes Mission St. as you enter Santa Cruz.

Turn right at Swift Street (the second light) unless you are going to Carpos which is 3 blocks past Swift on the left. Drive about ½ a mile west on Swift St.

turn right (at the first stop sign) north on Delaware St. for ¼ mile.

turn left (west) on Swanton Blvd for about 1/3 of a mile.

When Swanton Blvd. at ends at West Cliff drive, turn left and drive south for a beautiful 4 miles. You are driving into Monterey Bay. The first surf museum in the world is the little red lighthouse on your right about 2 miles after you started on West Cliff Drive. Stop at the lighthouse observe Steamers Lane. The old steamboats used this lane to deliver

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and pick up supplies at the wharf. It’s the biggest surf and best surfer viewing area I have ever seen. Continue east along Monterey Bay. West Cliff Drive turns into Beach St. You will drive past the best beach boardwalk in California. There is no admission charge, but the rides aren’t cheap. If you want to do some sunning or surfing, the boardwalk’s beach is the warmest on the whole trip and they rent surfboards, wetsuits, etc. nearby

After the roller-coaster, Beach Street flows 90 degrees left into 3rd St .

Turn right at Riverside Ave (the first street from the right.)

Drive over the San Lorenzo river and turn right at San Lorenzo Blvd

Turn left at Ocean Ave (4th street on the left). Drive east on Ocean Ave about 2 miles.

Turn right at the highway sign for Watsonville. Get on highway #1 freeway southbound.
If you are hungry and want an upscale deli/bakery take the Bay Ave exit in about 6 miles.
Also at Bay Ave is another Carpo’s on the east side next to the highway at this exit. For Gayle’s Deli/bakery go ½ a mile on Bay (west) toward the water. It is on the left in the small shopping center just past Capitola Ave.(2nd stop sign). My favorite is the wheat sourdough French bread. Ask them to slice the round. It’s usually warm from just being baked.
Drive #1 south for about 35 miles until you are about a mile before the big smokestacks just before the bridge over Elkhorn Slough to
Kayak on Elkhorn Slough www.elkhornslough.org.  and www.montereybaykayaks.com  If you are not tired of seeing marine mammals, turn right into the parking lot of Monterey Bay Kayaks. If you ever wanted to try ocean kayaking (in calm waters) stop! You will probably kayak among sea lions, harbor seals, sea otters, with baby sea gulls, pelicans, egrets, ducks, and lots of other birds. Talk to them about your need for a lesson. The rental price is $30.single, $25 double per person. It includes all the equipment - splash jacket, life jacket, etc. Because they are ocean (sit on top) kayaks it is more difficult to tip them over. They come with a rutter for easy turning. One warning, ask about the tides, don’t go too far in if you might have to oppose both the tide and the afternoon wind on the way back unless you want an excellent upper body workout. Two person kayaks are easier for because one person can rest while the other paddles.
Back on Southbound #1, continue south about 20 beautiful miles and take exit # 402B, Pacific Grove.
Drive about 1.5 miles west on Del Monte Dr. and at Monterey’s Fisherman’s Wharf you can have the magical experience of year around:
       Whale Watching www.montereyinfo.org  -drive past fisherman’s wharf take Foam St. and stop where you can see the water. Key point: look outside the harbor area. If there are medium size whitecaps or swells (rolling depressions in the water) don’t go out. If you go out and it is too rough, not only do you not see whales, but it is very cold so everyone goes inside the small rocking cabin, and one person gets nausea, and another…it wasn’t pretty. On my 10 trips out on calmer days I have always seen whales. It is a stunningly beautiful boat ride. You cruise past the aquarium and sometimes see part of the beautiful 17 mile drive from the water! Bring a jacket and sun block. If it is calm, go back to Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey and park your vehicle.  If it isn’t calm, continue to Cannery Row. When we have our winter low valley fog, its the best time to go whale watching or skiing.  The whale watching boats are at the end of fisherman’s wharf. Call me chicken, but after my bad experience, I won’t go out most windy summer afternoons. If the conditions are marginal, but you want to go, park and ask people coming off the boats if they had fun. Costs appear to be $34 per person for a 3 hour cruise. If you are interested in California history, there is an old town just across from Fisherman's Wharf.  Monterey was the first capital of California. There are restored buildings, etc.

After Fisherman's Wharf turn right on Foam Street
In a couple of blocks turn right on Reese. Reese turns into Cannery Row. Drive Cannery row. At the west end is the
Monterey Bay Aquarium www.mbayaq.org.  This world-class aquarium is an amazing place. It has a relatively new play/learn area for smaller children. You can happily spend many hours inside. Cost for adults is $22. There are long lines most summer weekend afternoons.
Continue west along the water. You are now in the City of Pacific Grove. As you drive along the bay the street name will change to Ocean View Dr. You are almost to my favorite place to stay on the Monterey Peninsula - Borg’s Motel (831) 375-2406. It’s the next building past Lattitudes Restaurant, at 635 Ocean View Dr. Weekend ocean front rooms

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are about $130 per night during winter and a little more in summer. They have less expensive rooms but they are non-view. My upscale preferring wife even likes it because of the view and location. At beautiful Lovers Point, across the street small waves are breaking against the sea wall. You can walk the uncrowded trails on the beautiful cliffs, or bike out to 17-mile drive and Pebble Beach. This is the last commercial building for miles, only beautiful houses, cliff side paths, and beaches. Best time of year: mid April to early June, the ice plants turn the area a beautiful fuchsia. When you get to the lighthouse, you are leaving Monterey Bay and are at the Pacific Ocean side of the peninsula. Just past the golf course (not before) is the second Lighthouse Rd. If is Oct-early March and you may want to see one of nature’s marvels,
Monarch Butterflies www.pacificgrove.org.  They winter here by the thousands, flying up to 2,000 miles from Canada and the west side of the U.S. Rockies. To see them
Turn left on Lighthouse Rd. Drive up Lighthouse Rd. about one mile,
turn right at Ridge Road. They are in a mini park just past the Butterfly Motel. The monarchs are more active during the warm part of the day. If you detoured to see the monarchs return to the coast.
Continue southbound. Ocean View Dr., it flows into Sunset Drive.
Drive Sunset Drive for a couple of miles until you see the street sign for 17 Mile Drive.

Turn right on 17 mile drive and pay the $8.00 per car fee-its more than worth the price. It’s free on bicycle. Follow the signs. Want to play golf? Unfortunately, Pebble Beach is the most expensive public golf course in the U.S. at $425 plus $25. per person for cart fee. Ouch!
Drive beautiful 17 mile drive. There’s an OK deli with picnic tables at Pebble Beach. Also a public bathrooms.

Go out the Carmel Gate-you have seen the best of the 17 mile drive. One block long Carmel Way flows into San Antonio Ave
 

Turn right on Ocean Ave. Drive down the two blocks to the dead end and park. You are at beautiful Carmel Beach City Park. Feel the ultra fine sand. You also get a different view of beautiful Pebble Beach Golf Course from the beach.
Drive up Ocean St. It’s the main street of upscale Carmel By The Sea. Keep an eye out for Clint Eastwood who used to be mayor and still lives in town.
Now back to S.F. the quick way - about 2½ hrs. Go up Ocean St. about 2 miles.

Turn left on highway #1 for about 30 miles, then

Turn right (east) at Castroville “the artichoke capitol of the world” take highway # 156 east for about 6 miles

Take highway #101 northbound to S.F. Welcome back.

6. Yosemite National Park www.nps.gov/yose/  4 hour drive plus stops each way. It’s a two day minimum for a pleasant trip unless you have two or more drivers and a lot tolerance for car travel. Gray Line, http://www.graylinesanfrancisco.com  and others, have a Yosemite one day (12 hrs) bus trip for $115. They say it gives you 2 ½ to 3 hours in the park and includes the valley tram tour (see #3 below)
Yosemite has the highest waterfall in North America, third highest in the world. It also has three of the four largest waterfalls in the U.S. But it is a unique and special place without waterfalls. The valley floor is at 4,000’ high with granite walls straight up to about 7,000’ high. Its summer high temp. is in the 80’s. In the winter the valley sometimes has snow. Best time of year for waterfalls: about the first week in May. By July some are barely flowing and late summer many are not flowing at all. That’s because it seldom rains in California in summer. Yosemite Falls (the big double falls you might have seen pictures of) and some others have a very small and sandy water shed area. When the snow melts in the spring and early summer, that’s the end of Yosemite Falls and some but not all the waterfalls.

Driving There

Over the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge, through the east bay, over the costal mountain range, through the Sacramento-San Joaquin Valley, into the foothills and up the sierra. Wow-what a lot of diverse geography. Highway # 120 through Oakdale is the shortest, fastest, and most scenic way to go except in winter just after a storm.

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Highway #120 gets over 6,000’ high and holds the snow longer than Highway # 140. During those times take Hwy.#140 through Merced. Coming back #140 is nice because after Yosemite, all other terrain doesn’t look as good, plus we already saw #120 on the way up. There is a $20 fee per vehicle into Yosemite.

Be sure to stop by a hidden gem on the way called: Rainbow Falls County Park. Like the road sign for the Marin County town of Bolinas, the locals usually remove the sign. It’s 13.3 miles past the town of Groveland. It will be .2 of a mile past the left arrow to Cherry Lake Rd. sign. Turn right just before the cement highway bridge. Go down ¼ mile to the end of the road. Get out of your car and walk a few feet below the falls. There are a few picnic tables but the big attraction are the falls, swimming, and watching people jump off the 20’ high rock.

Where To Stay

Book lodging on line at www.yosemitepark.com  or (559) 253-5635. High rollers like to stay at the Awahanee Hotel $370+. Visit the dining room during the daytime even if you don’t stay there. Mid rollers stay at the Yosemite Lodge Motel $110+. I like staying in Camp Curry $80+. Cabins with baths are nice. The cabins without a bath have a large bathroom nearby.  The tent cabins can get cold and noisy. Because they are the least desirable, for high season and weekends, without reservations months in advance, you may be lucky to get these. Hint: reserve a tent cabin, if that is all that is available, and keep checking back to upgrade.
Evenings are fun in the valley: the animals come out in the meadows, there are ranger led campfires, and plays at the visitor center. Don’t stay overnight out of the valley, in areas like El Portal, Wawona, or Groveland. The park is big and the roads are winding and only two lanes. The park has a 45 MPH speed limit and these areas require ½ hour to an hour driving each way to the valley plus sometimes a short wait at the entrance gate.

What to do in Yosemite National Park. So much to do, so little time. www.yosemitepark.com  or http://www.nps.gov/yose/trip/activities.htm 

The best part is just being there. It is breathtaking beautiful!

Year around activities: hiking, rock climbing, camping, backpacking, wildlife viewing.
Winter: downhill and cross country skiing and snowboarding, snow tubing, ice skating.
Spring through fall: fishing, golf, horse riding, rafting, easy biking, bird watching, swimming.

1. Park and take the free bus and your camera and jacket to the following:

2. Tour the visitor center. See the film and Indian village at the center.

3. Take the year around 2 hour, 26 mile valley tram tour. May – Oct it is open air. Bring a jacket. It cost $22 and leaves from Yosemite Lodge. Same day reservations are usually available. If you don’t have the time or money just ride the free bus on its circular route.

For easy walks:  "The Yosemite Prominade"  If there is water flowing over Yosemite Falls, this is a must see.  From the Yosemite Falls bus stop go to your left (west) past the new bathrooms to the falls.  Walk over the bridge past the falls a few hundreds yards to a paved walkway leading back to the bus stop. It's wheelchair accessible. Other walks:  along the river or out on a meadow trail.  For Yosemite Valley hiking information: http://www.nps.gov/yose/trip/valleyhikes.htm.  

For hikes, #1 is the Mist Trail (bring a light raincoat, snack, and small bottle of water). You will never forget it. Water flows all year long over this waterfall. It’s 2 miles each way and 1,000’ vertical. Expect to be breathing hard at this elevation. Plan 3+ hours. Some families with younger children do fine on this trail. But it’s not baby stroller friendly. There is a good view (and turn around for too many) 2/3 of the way at the bridge. It’s a very civilized hike with a drinking fountain and normal bathroom at the bridge. An outhouse style bathroom is at the top. The 2nd half of the hike is shorter, more beautiful, mistier, and steeper. To get away from the great view and mob at the top of Vernal Falls go upstream about 100 yards past the lake, to the sunny granite waterslide area. Keep away from the water everywhere, especially above the falls. People die in Yosemite waters every year!

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#2 favorite hike is to the bottom of upper Yosemite Falls. It’s about the same difficulty as the mist trail above, unless you continue all the way to the top. There are no bathrooms after the trailhead at Camp 4 campground.
The toughest day hike is Half Dome. Its 17 miles round trip and 4,800’ vertical. Check at the visitor center to see if the trail is open, and do’s and don’ts of this hike. If you have any fear of heights, this is not the hike for you. 
    Yosemite Valley is only about 5% of the park but gets 95% of the visitors. If you want to be in the beautiful high sierra, go to Tuolumne Meadows at 8,600’. It is the largest sub-alpine (has trees) meadow in the Sierra and is surrounded by 10,000’-13,000’ mountains. It’s a beautiful 55 mile drive from Yosemite Valley. A jacket is often nice during the summer. Tuolumne Meadows is closed by snow all winter and much of the spring and fall. There is a “hikers bus” from the valley to Tuolumne Meadows if you are tired of driving for $23 round trip. For an excellent  Yosemite Valley view and high country peek you can drive or take the bus to Glacier Point. The guided bus cost is $20 one way and $32.50 round trip May-Nov.  You can also hike the 4-mile trail from the Yosemite Valley to Glacier Point.  Using the bus one way,  you can hike either up or down the approx. 3,000’ vertical. Down is more popular.

About the Author: Raised in San Francisco. Drove a taxicab for 10 months in San Francisco prior to being a full-time paid firefighter in several bay area communities for over 30 years. Now living in the City of South San Francisco with my wife Ellen. We have four grown children.

For firefighters and fire buffs, see the an almost identical walking tour  on the sister web site www.sanfranciscoffwalk.com 

Please e-mail your comments and suggestions so I can make our web site better: bobromanoff@rcn.com.

One request: does anybody have the time and skills to make a digital map of the walking tour? Please e mail me. Thanks



 

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